Fermyn Woods Country Park - The Realm of the Purple Emperor

Have you ever spent a precious weekend morning driving to a nature reserve, full of hope, only to walk for an hour or so and feel… a bit let down?

You see trees, you hear birds, but the "wow" moment you were hoping for never arrives. You head home feeling like you missed something, that the real secrets of the place were kept from you.

I’ve been there more times than I can count.

But one of my family's favourite traditions, visiting Fermyn Woods in Northamptonshire at the beginning of July, taught me a powerful lesson: the most magical moments aren't found by accident.

They are unlocked by shifting your mindset from a passive observer to a curious explorer.

This isn't just a guide to a place; it's a guide to transforming those frustrating outings into the fulfilling adventures you know they can be.

Facing the Butterfly Paparazzi

Fermyn Woods is a beautiful park with accessible trails and serene ponds. But on our first few visits, I felt that familiar sense of being on the outside looking in.

This feeling peaked when we turned a corner and saw them: a huddle of people with enormous camera lenses, all pointed at the ground, snapping away.

I know how intimidating a scene like that can look when you're starting out. It can feel like a private club you're not invited to.

But I’ve learned a secret: that group is actually a gift.

They're a giant, flashing signpost pointing to something amazing. And on that day, they were pointing to the elusive Purple Emperor butterfly.

But before we get to His Majesty, let's talk about the first step to building your confidence: learning to master a common challenge.

A Shift in Focus

My heart sank.

A beautiful Red Kite was circling right above me, its V-shaped tail unmistakable against the bright sky. I raised my camera, excited, but every photo I took was a dark, frustrating blob.

The camera, trying to balance the bright sky, had turned the majestic bird into a silhouette. It’s a classic beginner’s problem and it used to ruin my day.

If this happens to you, don't give up!

The secret is your Exposure Compensation button (+/-). For a dark bird against a bright sky, you need to force the camera to let in more light. Dial it up to +1 or even +2 and try again. You're not breaking it; you're telling it what you can see.

It’s the moment you feel like a magician. Suddenly, you're not just fighting your camera; you're in control.

You start capturing the rich colours of the feathers and the fierce look in its eye. We're not just taking pictures; we're preserving a moment of wildness, and that feeling is the first step to real confidence.

Red KiteRed Kite
Common BuzzardCommon Buzzard

An Audience with the Emperor

Now, back to that butterfly.

The Purple Emperor is the second-largest butterfly in England and famously elusive. For years, I searched for one without success. Why? Because I was looking in the wrong places.

Here’s the kind of insider knowledge that changes everything.

You might see photographers with huge lenses and think you need one too. I used to think that! But the truth is, the most important tool is learning where to look.

So, forget about searching around sweet-smelling flowers.

Believe it or not, your best bet for finding a Purple Emperor is to check out any muddy puddles or piles of dog poop you come across! They are drawn to the salts and minerals.

It’s a quirky, slightly gross secret, but it’s the key that unlocks the experience.

Suddenly, you have knowledge that others don't. On my birthday one July, that knowledge paid off.

After hours of walking, we were on our way back to the car when we saw that huddle of photographers. And there it was, a male Purple Emperor, sipping from a muddy puddle. I dropped to the ground and joined the quiet, happy crowd.

I didn’t have a pro lens, but it didn’t matter. I snapped a picture I’ll treasure forever—a "record shot" that proved I'd finally cracked the code. Words fall short of describing how amazing that moment was. I was totally bitten by the "bug."

Purple Emperor in muddy puddleMy first ever Purple Emperor

A year later, armed with this new confidence, I went back.

This time, I found one myself, perched on a bush. As I set up my camera, a different butterfly, a Silver-Washed Fritillary, zoomed in and chased the Emperor away. Capturing that entire dramatic scene was a thrill like no other.

Purple EmperorPurple Emperor
Silver Washed Fritillary approaching a Purple EmperorIn flies a Silver Washed Fritillary
Purple Emperor and Silver Washed Fritillary"I want to perch here!"
Purple Emperor being chased off by Silver Washed FritillaryThe Emperor departs

I eventually sprawled on the ground near another one and finally managed a shot I was proud of.

The feeling is incredible, and it's something you can absolutely achieve. The key isn't being a 'pro'; it's being curious enough to learn one simple, weird trick.

Male Purple Emperor butterflyA hint of the purple upper wing
Purple Emperor butterfly on the groundTaken with the camera on the ground
Male Purple Emperor butterflyMale Purple Emperor flashing his iridescent wings.

from Observer to Explorer

My husband eventually had to pull me away, or I might have camped out there all day. And you know what? I’ll be back next year, because I'm never quite satisfied.

That’s the real transformation. You go from feeling let down by what you didn't see, to feeling a constant, thrilling pull towards what you might discover next.

The eerie mewing call of a Red Kite becomes a "heads up" to grab your camera.

A muddy puddle (or pile of poop) becomes a place of possibility.

The real trophy isn't the perfect photo or a long list of species.

It’s the quiet confidence that comes from understanding the world around you. It's the shift from being an outsider to being in on the secret. And that is a feeling you can take with you on every single walk, for the rest of your life.

A Practical Guide to YOUR Fermyn Woods Adventure

A wooden seat in the shape of a butterflyThe last remaining butterfly seat

Ready to start your own journey? Here’s what you need to know.

  • The Trails: The park has three waymarked routes, including the fully accessible Skylark Nature Trail. Don't be afraid to wander off them, as the best discoveries are often made when you chart your own course.
  • The Butterflies: Besides the Purple Emperor (best seen in July), the path behind the visitor café is a hotspot for summer butterflies like the Silver-Washed Fritillary, Marbled White, Comma, and Common Blue. Keep your eyes peeled. (If you want to improve your butterfly photography, you can find my full page of tips here).
Silver Washed Fritillary butterfly side viewSilver Washed Fritillary - underwings
Silver Washed Fritillary butterflySilver Washed Fritillary - upper wings
Female Common Blue butterflyFemale Common Blue
Marbled White butterflyMarbled White
Speckled Wood butterflySpeckled Wood
Comma butterflyThe Comma with it's distinctive wing shape. The comma marking is only visible on the back of the lower wings.
Small Skipper butterflySmall skipper
Ringlet butterflyRinglet
Emerald DamselfyEmerald Damselfly
Broad Bodied Chaser dragonflyBroad Bodied Chaser


  • Great Crested Newts: Taking the path near the Visitor Centre, and then the first left, will take you to a small piece of water that is home to the protected newts. It took me over an hour on my first attempt to get a decent photo!
  • Other Wildlife: Listen for the calls of Red Kites and Common Buzzards overhead. If you are very quiet and very lucky, you might even spot the fallow deer that sometimes pass through the woods at dawn or dusk.
Fallow deer at Fermyn WoodsFallow Deer. She had a fawn but it is not visible in this photograph.
Photo of Carol

About the Author

Carol is a wildlife photographer and nature writer based in the East of England, with a passion for peaceful walks, patient observation, and capturing life’s quiet wonders.

Through her lens and words, she shares the stories of the natural world — from bluebells and butterflies to birds like the great crested grebe.

Read more about Carol

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