Getting Into Wildlife Photography: A Beginner's Guide

Ever wondered how a single photo could change things?

It just so happens, that for me, it started with a blurry raptor.

I was heading home from the supermarket, of all places, when I spotted it soaring over the fields near Corby.

A quick snap (and a slightly wobbly zoom) later, I found myself staring at talons, feathers, and eyes that seemed to see right through me.

That’s when something clicked—not just my shutter, but something deeper. I didn’t just want to take pictures of wildlife. I wanted to tell their stories.

One mayfly, one miracle

That first buzz of excitement led to early mornings, muddy boots, and long patient waits. And then one spring day, I went looking for a particular insect—iconic in its own delicate way—and found myself nose-to-lens with it.

The shot was sharp, well-lit, and for once, not even slightly blurry. It landed me a prize in the local paper and (much more importantly) introduced a tiny, overlooked creature to a whole new set of admirers.

And just like that, this hobby became something more. A way to notice. To share. To make a small difference.

Now, when I head out with my camera, I’m not chasing perfection—I’m chasing connection. With nature, with the moment, and sometimes (when I’m lucky) with a reader.

So if you’re wondering where to begin, here’s everything I’ve learned—often the hard way!

You don’t need the fanciest kit or an exotic trip to the Galápagos.

You just need curiosity, a bit of patience, and a willingness to notice the quiet magic around you.

This guide covers the essentials you'll need (without falling down the rabbit hole of gear reviews).

First Things First: Choosing Your Camera

Now, before you start thinking you need to remortgage the house or sell a beloved heirloom, let me assure you—you can begin with very modest kit.

The mayfly photo I mentioned earlier? Taken with my faithful old Canon 7D Mark II and a macro lens that had seen better days.

What matters more than megapixels is matching your gear to the kind of moments you’re hoping to capture.

Choosing your first camera when getting into wildlife photography can feel overwhelming, but here’s a guide through the wilds of camera gear without the overwhelm

What to Look for in a Wildlife Camera

Your camera doesn’t have to be the latest or greatest. But a few features will make your life easier:

• Fast autofocus — Wild animals rarely say cheese. Quick, reliable focus helps catch those blink-and-you’ll-miss-it moments.
• Burst mode with a good buffer Burst mode lets you take a flurry of photos in quick succession without slowing down while the camera writes them to the card.
• Low-light performance — Wildlife tends to appear when the light is either magical or maddening. A camera that can handle ISO 1600+ is a bonus
• Weather resistance — Because British weather doesn’t care about your plans.

Next up, we’ll look at lenses (and no, you don’t need seventeen of them—unless you want to support your local chiropractor).

Let’s Talk Lenses (a.k.a. Your Wildlife Window)

If your camera is your sketchbook, the lens is your paintbrush—and choosing the right one can make all the difference.

You don’t need a dozen lenses rattling about in your bag. Honestly, I’ve gone out with just one and come back with a card full of treasures.

Here’s what’s made the most difference to me:

Super-Telephoto (150–600mm or thereabouts)

Perfect for birds, deer, and anything that bolts the second you blink. These lenses let you keep a respectful distance and still capture the glint in an eye or a glimmer of feather detail.

They’re not feather-light, but they open up a world of moments you’d otherwise miss. 

Macro (90–105mm)

This one’s for the tiny wonders—bees, damselflies, the odd butterfly that insists on posing. I’ve crouched in damp grass more times than I care to admit, but with a macro lens, the results are well worth the muddy knees.

Wide-Angle (16–35mm)

Not just for landscapes—these are brilliant when you want to place an animal in its environment.  These lenses tell more than just a close-up story; they capture a mood.

You might be surprised to learn these are often more expensive than long telephotos!

To save money (and weight in your bag) you might like to do what I do. Get out that trusty smartphone! 

Next up, we’ll explore how to hold your setup steady—because no one likes a blurry photo.

Staying Steady: Tripods, Monopods & Beanbags

Even the sharpest lens can’t save a wobbly photo.

And let’s be honest—after crouching behind a log for half an hour waiting for a squirrel to do something vaguely photogenic, your arms might need a break.

Here are a few ways I keep things steady (and my arms intact):

Tripods

Your best bet if you’re setting up in one spot—like a hide or a favourite woodland corner.

• Rock solid for long lenses
• Brilliant for low light and slower shutter speeds
• Saves your back on long stakeouts

Tip: Look for one with quick-release locks. No one wants to fumble with fiddly clips while a kestrel takes off.

Monopods

A single leg, twice the mobility. I’ve found these handy for walkabouts or situations where you don’t want to commit to a full setup.

• Great support on the go
• Doubles as a walking stick (ask me how I know)
• Ideal for following fast-moving subjects

Beanbags

Yes, really. Pop one on a log, the car window, or even the ground for low-angle shots.

• Super stable and surprisingly versatile
• Brilliant for photographing mammals at eye-level
• Light enough to toss in your bag without noticing

Next, we’ll chat about memory cards, rain covers, and all the other bits that keep your gear in working order.

Memory Cards, Rain Covers & The Odd Bit of Magic

These bits and pieces might not be glamorous, but they’ve saved me more times than I can count. Don't be like me and accidentally leave them at home…

Memory Cards

Bring more than one. Trust me.

• Size: At least 64GB if you’re shooting RAW or using burst mode.
  
• Speed: Look for fast write speeds—your buffer (and sanity) will thank you.

Format your card in the camera you will be shooting with. That might sound silly when you only have one camera, but keep it in mind for future you, when you carry a spare as well. 

Rain Covers & Lens Hoods

Because weather waits for no photographer.

• Did you know they sell plastic raincovers for cameras and lenses? If you'd rather save your money for memory cards or lenses, any plastic bag will do in a pinch. 
• Lens hoods help with glare and protect your glass from accidents. 

I fell over on the boardwalk at Wicken Fen, on my first trip out with an expensive lens, and the lens hood, although buckled, prevented major damage!

Camera bags

Look for padded dividers, weatherproofing, and straps that won’t make you feel like you’ve been backpacking in the Alps after ten minutes.

Mine’s scruffy and slightly muddy, but it’s shaped to my back and holds everything from spare cards to emergency glucose.

The Unexpected Essentials

• Microfibre cloth – helps keep things clean
• Silica gel packets – steal them from shoeboxes and keep them in your camera bag to ward off moisture
• A thermos of tea – strictly optional, but highly recommended

Right. That’s the gear sorted. Now let’s peek inside your camera settings and make sense of those mysterious numbers—without needing a PhD in exposure triangles.

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Understanding Your Camera Settings

If you’ve ever looked at your camera’s screen and thought, “What on earth does f/5.6 at 1/1600 and ISO 800 mean?”—don’t worry. You’re not alone.

And no, it’s not a secret code for finding the best picnic spots (although I’d quite like that).

Here’s a gentle guide to the exposure triangle: the trio of settings that control how your photo looks.

Aperture (a.k.a. That f-number thing)

Aperture is like your camera’s eye—the wider it opens, the more light it lets in.

• Small number (e.g. f/2.8): Wide open, lets in more light. Great for blurry backgrounds that make your subject pop.
• Big number (e.g. f/11): Narrower opening. Keeps more of the scene in focus—perfect for landscapes or herds of animals.

I use a wide aperture for a bird on a stick (a photographers term for a branch, log etc), and a narrower one when I want the whole scene sharp.

Shutter Speed ( Freeze or Flow)

This controls how long your camera’s shutter stays open.

• Fast (1/2000): Freezes action—ideal for birds in flight or a robin doing a splashy bath dive. 
• Slow  (1/30): Allows blur - can be artistic by needs a steady hand or a tripod

Faster is usually safer. Unless you're after that dreamy motion blur look that photographers often use for water shots.

ISO (a.k.a. Light Sensitivity)

ISO adjusts your camera’s sensitivity to light.

Low (100–400): Crisp, clean images - great for bright days

High (1600+): Helps in dim conditions, but may add a bit of grain (which I sometimes quite like—it adds mood!).

I’ve taken some of my favourite photos at ISO 3200 just after sunset. Don’t fear the grain—it’s the digital version of character.

Bringing It All Together

These three settings work together. Change one, and the others need adjusting too. 

For example: 

• Want a fast shutter for action? You may need to open your aperture or raise the ISO.
• Shooting a still subject in nice light? Lower the ISO, slower shutter, and play with the aperture for background blur.

There’s no one perfect recipe—but after a bit of practice, it becomes second nature. Like knowing exactly when the kettle boils without looking.

Next up: how to choose between full manual mode and those slightly friendlier cousins—Aperture and Shutter Priority.

Aperture & Shutter Priority: Friendly Modes for Real-Life Moments

If the idea of full manual mode gives you a mild headache (or causes you to break out in a cold sweat), you’re in good company. Even now, I don’t use it all the time.

That’s why I love semi-automatic modes—Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority. They let you take creative control, without needing to juggle three settings at once like a circus act.

Aperture Priority (A or Av)

You choose the aperture, and the camera handles the shutter speed.

Great for:

• Blurry backgrounds with sharp subjects (f/4 on a perched robin)
• Keeping everything sharp (f/11 for a row of deer in a misty field)

his is my go-to when I’m photographing a still subject and want to focus more on depth of field (how much is in focus) than fiddling with speed.

Shutter Priority (S or Tv)

You set the shutter speed, and the camera picks an appropriate aperture.

Perfect for:

• Birds in flight (1/2000 or faster to freeze the wings)
• Running wildlife or jumping squirrels
• Any moment that could be described as “blink and you’ll miss it”

I use this when I’m tracking something fast and want to make absolutely sure I don’t end up with a blur that looks like modern art.

Which Mode should you use?

Try Aperture Priority when you have time to compose and want control over the look of the background.

Try Shutter Priority when you’re chasing motion and want to freeze movement.

Don’t be afraid to raise your ISO to get the shot. A slightly noisy image is always better than a blurred one—especially when the subject is special.

And if it all goes pear-shaped, don’t worry—we’ve all accidentally taken unintentioinal silhouettes. The joy is in learning, adjusting, and occasionally laughing at your mistakes.

Try setting your camera to Aperture Priority for a week. You’ll get comfortable with how light behaves—and your photos will still look amazing.

Right then, time to talk about light. Because even the best gear and clever settings won’t help if you’re shooting in light that’s flat as a pancake.

Why Lighting Makes All the Difference

You can have the fanciest lens, the cleverest settings, and the most cooperative fox in the county—but if the light isn’t right, the magic might fizzle out.

Light is what shapes your photo.

It can soften, sharpen, warm, cool, hide or highlight. And best of all?

It doesn’t cost a penny. You just have to be in the right place at the right time (with a bit of planning).

Golden Hour (the Wildlife Photographer’s Happy Place)

The hour after sunrise and the one before sunset, both known as the golden hour, is your best friend. It’s like nature’s version of a soft-focus filter.

• Warm, glowing tones that make everything look richer
• Long, gentle shadows that add shape and interest
• Softer light that flatters fur and feathers (even the scruffiest pigeons)

Backlighting (a Bit of Drama)

Position your subject between you and the sun and you’ll often get rim light around feathers or fur—a glowing outline that feels almost theatrical.

• Works beautifully on crisp mornings or near sunset
• Try spot metering to avoid turning your subject into a silhouette (unless that’s what you’re after)

A little lens flare never hurt anyone. Sometimes it even adds a bit of magic.

Mist & Fog (Soft, Moody and Atmospheric)

On misty mornings, the world goes quiet—and so do your photos.

• Mist diffuses light, softens backgrounds, and hides distractions
• Wildlife tends to be more active at dawn, so it’s worth the early wake-up even if the drive to your destination is a bit dodgy

Bring a lens cloth. Or three. Mist is beautiful—but it also loves to cling to glass.

Whether it’s golden hour glow, backlit drama, or foggy stillness, light is the secret sauce. Learn to watch it, work with it, and sometimes even wait for it. Your patience will be rewarded.

By understanding and embracing different lighting conditions, you can boost your wildlife photography and add variety to your portfolio.

Whether it’s the warm glow of golden hour, the drama of backlighting, or the mystery of fog and mist, each lighting scenario offers unique creative opportunities.

Beyond the Gear: Skills You’ll Need (That No Camera Can Buy)

We've explored the cameras, lenses, settings, and light that form the technical toolkit for wildlife photography. Having the right equipment and understanding how to use it is a fantastic start!

But truly connecting with nature through your lens, and capturing those special moments, often relies on a few other essentials:

Patience

This is perhaps the wildlife photographer's most valuable asset!

Animals operate on their own schedules, not ours. Much of your time might be spent waiting quietly, observing.

Embrace these moments. Learn to enjoy the stillness and the sounds of nature around you, even if your main subject doesn't appear immediately.

Sometimes the most rewarding photos come after a long, peaceful wait. Think of it as time invested in nature, with the photograph as a wonderful bonus.

Observation Skills

Go beyond just looking for animals; learn to see their world.

• Where do local birds tend to perch or feed?
• What time of day are mammals most active in your nearby woods or fields?

Understanding animal behaviour helps you anticipate actions, choose better locations, and know where to focus your attention. This turns passive waiting into active, informed observation.

Respect for Wildlife (Ethics)

This is non-negotiable. The welfare of your subject always comes first.

Use your lens's reach to get 'closer', rather than physically approaching in a way that causes stress or disturbance.

Be especially mindful around nesting sites or animals with young.

Avoid behaviour that alters an animal's natural activity just for a photograph.

Learn and follow ethical wildlife photography guidelines and local codes of conduct (like the UK Countryside Code). Our aim is to capture the beauty of nature without causing harm.

Practice, Practice, Practice

Like any skill, getting into wildlife photography improves dramatically with practice.

Don't be discouraged by early attempts that aren't perfect – every photographer goes through this!

Use the birds in your garden, squirrels in the local park, or even your pets to practice tracking movement, experimenting with settings (especially Aperture and Shutter Priority modes), and understanding light.

The more you use your camera, the more intuitive it will become, freeing you up to focus on the moment when that special wildlife encounter happens.

🌿 Ready to head out into the wild?

Now that you’ve got the gear and a feel for the light, it’s time to plan your first shoot.

In the next guide, I’ll show you how to choose a location, understand animal behaviour, compose your shots, and approach wildlife with care and respect.

Start Planning Your Wildlife Photography Shoot

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