A 5:30 AM alarm slicing through the quiet dark of a frosty winter Sunday? Not my usual idea of fun!
But the promise of RSPB Nene Washes bathed in sunrise gold, and the chance to witness its most enigmatic winter hunters – the magnificent Short-eared Owls – makes even scraping ice off the windscreen feel utterly worthwhile (even if my husband needed extra convincing!).
This page takes you along on that magical (and freezing!) Cambridgeshire morning adventure.
Experience the breathtaking sunrise transforming the vast landscape, get insights into tracking and photographing those incredible owls in flight, and see photos of other winter wonders like Whooper Swans, flocks of wildfowl, and elusive Roe Deer that made the early start unforgettable.
More than just the story, I'll share the real-world photography tips learned that morning – dealing with numb fingers, optimizing settings for tricky light, and capturing fast-moving wildlife.
And if you're inspired to visit, you'll find practical information included to help plan your own trip to the Nene Washes. Let's explore that stunning winter morning together!
After navigating forty-five minutes of icy, narrow Cambridgeshire lanes, our perseverance was rewarded just as we neared the reserve.
The horizon was beginning to blush.
As we crested a small humpback bridge, the vast, flat landscape of the washes unfolded below us, ignited by the first rays of the sun.
The air was sharp, the silence profound, and the view utterly breathtaking.
This magical early morning light, often called the Golden Hour, offers incredible opportunities for photographers – it transforms landscapes and wildlife alike.
There's often a wonderful contrast in wildlife photography between the physical conditions and the sheer joy they can inspire!
That morning was a perfect example: bundled up in multiple layers against the freezing air, my fingers quickly became so cold that operating the camera controls felt clumsy.
Yet, the spectacle of the winter sunrise unfolding over the Nene Washes filled me with such excitement that, as my husband pointed out, I already had a wide smile spreading across my face. As we began our walk, the only sound breaking the profound morning silence was the satisfying crunch of frost underfoot.
It's impossible to capture the full scale of such a scene in one frame, but the photograph below gives a taste of that incredible light and atmosphere.
Tip: Check Your Exposure for Sunrises! Shooting directly towards a sunrise often creates high contrast between the bright sky and darker foreground. Using tools like your camera's histogram is invaluable for checking that you aren't losing important detail in the deep shadows or blown-out highlights.
As a self-confessed raptor fanatic, the main reason for braving the pre-dawn cold was the hope of glimpsing the magnificent Short-eared Owls that hunt over the Nene Washes in winter.
I couldn't believe my luck when, just minutes after arriving, I spotted one quartering low over the water – that distinctive, buoyant flight!
Seeing them hunting so actively in daylight – something Short-eared Owls often do in winter, unlike more nocturnal Tawny or Long-eared owls – really allowed me to study their movements.
My initial reaction, however, was pure fumble; fingers numb with cold, reactions too slow, resulting only in photos of the owl flying away.
But the thrill was immense; I'd seen my first ever 'Shortie', and my smile turned into a wide grin that stayed fixed for the rest of the morning!
Thankfully, the owl (or perhaps others) reappeared several times throughout the morning, giving me the chance to settle down, anticipate its movements better, and practice tracking its mesmerising, moth-like flight pattern.
The viewing bank was quite distant from the main hunting areas over the water, so I was very glad I'd remembered to pack my teleconverter (extender) to give my 100-400mm lens some extra reach to capture the following shots. Ideally a 150-600mm would have been better here.
Although the Short-eared Owls were a definite highlight, they weren't the only spectacular birds enjoying the glorious morning light.
Further out on the main expanse of water, a family group of Whooper Swans drifted serenely, their brilliant white feathers luminous against the dark water and golden sunrise.
The young birds would have been this year's babies, and hadn't yet developed their distinctive yellow beaks – a key difference from the orange bill and black knob of the familiar resident mute swan.
We also had fantastic views of Whooper Swans during our winter visit to Welches Dam on the Ouse Washes, another excellent local spot.
While many wildfowl remained distant specks out on the main washes, the sky above provided constant opportunities to practice capturing birds in flight (BIF).
Focusing on the flocks passing overhead was a great way to hone tracking skills and experiment with shutter speeds, essential techniques for any wildlife photographer.
The sheer number and variety of ducks found in the UK using the washes in winter was fantastic. During the walk, those passing close enough to identify included:
While thrilling to see, capturing sharp photos of these rapidly flying ducks, often silhouetted against the bright winter sky, requires quick reflexes and the right camera settings.
Photo Tip - Capturing Flying Ducks: Ducks often fly quickly and purposefully, sometimes in tight flocks which can challenge autofocus systems!
Tracking them smoothly is key. Using Shutter Priority mode with a speed of at least 1/1000s to 1/1600s usually works well to freeze wing motion.
Exposing correctly against a bright or uniform overcast sky can also be tricky; watch out for silhouettes and consider using exposure compensation (+/- button) if your subjects look too dark or too bright.
Combining these settings with continuous autofocus (AF-C/AI Servo) and burst mode definitely increases your chances of nailing a sharp shot!
Adding to the aerial display were a few Lapwings, instantly recognisable by their floppy, almost hesitant wingbeats and rounded wingtips – quite different from the ducks!
Also known as Green Plovers for their iridescent sheen in the right light, I decided to focus on tracking one as it flew past.
This is where using the camera's fast burst mode really pays dividends. My Canon 7D Mark II could shoot at 10 frames per second, firing off a rapid sequence of images as the bird moved.
This technique significantly increases your chances of capturing that 'perfect' moment in the wing cycle, like the elegant upward beat frozen in the photo below.
Seeing them always brings mixed feelings for me; when we first moved to West Cambridgeshire over 40 years ago, these beautiful waders were such a common sight across the fields.
Sadly, like many ground-nesting birds, their numbers have noticeably declined in recent years, making sightings like this feel even more precious.
The Short-eared Owls weren't the only birds of prey capitalising on the crisp morning conditions.
We also enjoyed watching a female Kestrel as she hovered intently, scanning the water margins below for any sign of movement.
Moments later, some classic aerial drama unfolded when a feisty Black-headed Gull (still in its white-headed winter plumage) took exception to the Kestrel's presence and began actively 'mobbing' it, chasing the Kestrel across the sky!
Photo Tip: Capturing interactions like this often requires quick reflexes, anticipating flight paths, and using continuous autofocus to keep track of the fast-changing action.
The final raptor sighting of the morning was a Marsh Harrier, soaring in its characteristic style low over the distant reedbeds.
It was simply too far away for a truly satisfying photograph, even with an extender fitted; the image below is heavily cropped just to show the bird's shape.
Photo Tip: Photographing very distant subjects often results in disappointment due to atmospheric haze or 'heat shimmer', even on cold days. Heavy cropping also drastically reduces image quality – sometimes it's far better to just enjoy the moment through your binoculars!)
Adding to the busy skies were flocks of Fieldfares, instantly recognisable as large, colourful thrushes even at a distance.
These handsome birds are winter visitors to the UK, migrating from Scandinavia, and their chattering calls and bounding flight are a true sign of the season – I always love seeing their distinctive grey heads, speckled chests, and warm, rusty-toned backs against the winter landscape.
Photo Tip - Capturing Flocks: Photographing flocks in flight presents different challenges to single birds. Often, autofocus systems can struggle to lock onto one individual within a busy group.
Sometimes it's effective to use a slightly narrower aperture (like f/8 or f/11) to increase the depth of field, helping get more birds sharp. Alternatively, focus on capturing the overall shape, pattern, and energy of the flock itself rather than perfect detail on one bird.
💡 Identifying Birds of Prey
Spotting raptors like the Short-eared Owl, Kestrel, and Marsh Harrier mentioned on this walk is always a thrill! Learning to identify them confidently by their shape, size, flight style, and habitat is a rewarding skill for any birdwatcher or photographer.
While the Nene Washes are primarily renowned for birds, mammal sightings are always an exciting bonus!
Roe deer, one of only two truly native UK deer species, are actually quite common but tend to be shy creatures preferring woodland edges.
Seeing them out in the open is less frequent, so I was absolutely delighted to spot a small group – a handsome buck accompanied by two does – bounding energetically across the ground beside the water's edge.
Photographing them immediately presented a challenge: their warm brown winter coats blended remarkably well with the colour of the frosty vegetation behind them, making it tricky for my camera's autofocus system to lock on reliably as they ran.
Thinking fast, I switched to manual focus, pre-focusing roughly on the area they were heading towards.
Knowing I also needed a fast shutter speed to freeze their 'bounding' motion, I quickly opened my aperture to its widest setting (f/5.6 on the lens I was using) and checked my ISO was at a reasonable level (ISO 640).
Thankfully, this combination gave me a shutter speed of 1/1600s, which proved fast enough to capture sharp images as they raced past.
(If juggling aperture, shutter speed, and ISO like this sounds daunting, my guide on understanding camera settings explains the basics.)
By mid-morning, the early solitude we'd enjoyed began to fade as other birdwatchers and photographers, drawn by the reserve's winter wildlife reputation, started to arrive along the banks.
Feeling thoroughly chilled despite our layers, but exhilarated after several hours immersed in that glorious sunrise and encountering such abundant wildlife, we decided it was the perfect time to head home.
Besides the lure of warming up, I was incredibly eager to download and discover what treasures were hidden among the thousand-plus photographs I'd managed to capture during the magical morning at Nene Washes!
This glorious winter morning was just one chapter in my Nene Washes adventures.
The reserve draws wildlife enthusiasts year-round, partly because it now offers the thrilling chance to see the UK's tallest bird! You can read the story of my own exciting encounters with these rare Common Cranes at the washes on this separate page.
📍 Key Access / Viewing: Main access for viewing is typically via the Eldernell area. From the car park (see below), follow the public footpath along the adjacent flood embankment/Counter Drain for extensive views over the Washes. Note: There is generally no public access directly onto the reserve fields from this area.
🌐 RSPB Website: Visit the official RSPB Nene Washes reserve page.
(Check here for the latest sightings, detailed access maps, potential flooding conditions/closures, and events.
⏰ Best Times / Seasons: Winter (Nov-Feb) is prime time for large wildfowl flocks, Whooper Swans, and Short-eared Owls (often best viewed late afternoon). Common Cranes are increasingly seen, particularly autumn/winter. Spring/summer brings breeding waders and marsh harriers.
❗ Facilities & Terrain: Be prepared! Main viewing areas like Eldernell typically have very limited facilities (no visitor centre, cafe, or toilets usually on site). Access involves walking on public footpaths along river banks, which can be uneven, exposed, and very muddy, especially after rain or floods. Appropriate sturdy footwear is essential.
🅿️ Parking: Small car park located at Eldernell. To reach it, turn north off the A605 (east of Whittlesey, near the prominent John Deere depot) and follow the single track road for approximately 1 mile. Be aware: No vehicular access is permitted beyond this car park.
👀 Viewing Notes: Viewing is typically from exposed banks or public footpaths. Dedicated bird hides are not a feature of the main Washes areas easily accessible by car. Binoculars or a spotting scope are highly recommended due to the distances often involved.
Carol is a wildlife photographer and nature writer based in the East of England, with a passion for peaceful walks, patient observation, and capturing life’s quiet wonders.
Through her lens and words, she shares the stories of the natural world — from bluebells and butterflies to birds like the great crested grebe.
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