The Common Crane (Grus grus) is the tallest bird in Britain, and its bugling call carries across open country like a sound from much further back in time.
It nearly didn't make it back at all. Cranes were extinct as a breeding bird here for almost 400 years. The population is recovering now, slowly, on the back of habitat restoration and steady conservation work in wetlands like the Cambridgeshire Fens.
RSPB Nene Washes is one of the better places to watch them. I've had a few autumn encounters there I won't forget.
My first sighting here was an accident. We'd come to Nene Washes late on an October afternoon in 2018. The fields were dry after a long summer and most of the wintering wildfowl hadn't arrived yet, so there wasn't much about.
We'd walked a fair way with little to show for it when my husband asked, "What is that large grey bird with a white head over there?" Cranes had been reported locally now and then, so my pulse quickened.
I got the lens onto the distant field and there they were: four Common Cranes. A family group, two adults and two smaller, buff-headed juveniles from that year's brood.
They were too far for anything but record shots. But watching them move across the washes, and hearing those calls echo back, low and prehistoric, was enough. We stayed until my husband's patience wore thin.
We went back almost to the day two years on, late October 2020. This time it wasn't one family. Around 60 Common Cranes came over in skeins, line after line against the evening sky.
Photographing that many in failing light was a struggle. Seeing that many was the point. The cranes are settling in at Nene Washes.
The history is part of why these birds are worth the trip. Common Cranes vanished as a breeding species in Britain around the 1600s, hunted out and drained out as the wetlands and marshes they depend on were turned over to farmland. For three centuries the country had no crane calls in it.
The return began in 1979, when a few wild birds settled back into part of the Norfolk Broads on their own. Since then, conservation work, reintroduction projects like the Great Crane Project in Somerset, and large-scale wetland restoration across the Fens have built the numbers back up.
Where they stand now
Surveys around 2023 put the UK population above 250 birds, with more than 80 breeding pairs. It's still climbing.
To see them yourself, head for the public footpaths near the Eldernell access point at RSPB Nene Washes, off the A605 near Whittlesey. Autumn and winter give you the best odds, when the birds gather in flocks, feeding in the fields or flying out to roost.
Before you go: Expect distant views. Bring binoculars or a spotting scope. Cranes are easily disturbed, so keep your distance and stay on the marked public paths.
A quiet day on the washes still puts you in front of a bird that wasn't here at all a lifetime ago.
Seasonal field notes from my wildlife walks: recent encounters, the story behind favourite photos, and simple, practical tips you can use on your next outing.