Have you ever been drawn to a place that's equal parts beautiful and brutal?
For me, that place is Grafham Water reservoir in Cambridgeshire. Its calm surface hides a challenging nine-mile circular walk that has left many walkers, myself included, humbled and exhausted.
I'm not alone in my fascination with this Site of Special Scientific Interest. There is something about Grafham that pulls you back, however much the full loop tests your legs.
Grafham Water at a glance
Grafham Water rewards a visit at any time of year.
In summer, swifts arrive and tear low over the water on warm evenings, screaming as they go. Whether you sail, walk, or love being outdoors, there is something here in every season.
Winter has its own draw. The Goldeneye drakes are worth the cold: sleek black and white, they throw their heads right back in an elaborate courtship display. Every season turns up something different.
Grafham Water has supplied water to Milton Keynes since 1964. It is far more than a reservoir, though. An 80-hectare nature reserve sits alongside it, full of life.
Sir Peter Scott opened the reserve in 1968, and Anglian Water and the Wildlife Trust have managed it together since 1986.
The management is hands-on. Cattle graze the grasslands in a natural cycle of growth and renewal, and the hay is harvested later. The Trust keeps the scrubland in good shape for nesting birds and removes non-native trees so native species have room to grow.
Mudflats, woodlands and wetlands sit side by side here, which is why the wildlife is so varied.
Grafham is also set up for a day out. There is bike hire, cafés and toilets, and for birdwatchers, eight bird hides are placed around the shoreline at the best vantage points.
Here is what you can find on a walk around it, section by section.
The Mander car park is a good place to start. The Fishing Lodge, a café and toilets are all close by, so you can fuel up before you set off.
This section takes in two of the eight hides: the Mander Hide and the Valley Creek Hide. Early on you might see a row of Cormorants perched on the fence, or a group of Goldeneye and other wildfowl out on the water.
The Nature Conservation Area has restricted access, so you backtrack and follow the field edge. It joins a smooth, hard surfaced cycle track that suits walking or cycling.
After a tunnel of trees you reach the Littless Creek Nature Trail and the Dragonfly Pond, which has a pond dipping platform where children can get close to the water life.
The route then crosses a grassy ride, passes the Wildlife Trust information barn, and opens onto a lake full of birds. Watch for the Great Crested Grebe, a November regular at Littless Creek. From Littless Hide, the creek is dotted with Coot and other wildfowl.
This section is about five miles. At the turning point you can head back, or carry on to Lymage Hide, tucked away at the end of Dudney Creek. It is a good spot for Nightingales in spring.
There are other places to start, and the Grafham Water Dam is one of them.
The path along the dam is hard surfaced. The dam wall on your right can block the view for wheelchair users, but the natural bank on your left is full of birds and insects.
Start at the Marlow car park, where you will find the Visitor Centre and the usual amenities. There is a water sports area here if you want one, and an all weather walk if you would rather keep it gentle. The visitor information website lists parking charges and opening hours.
The scrubland on the right of the dam has become a hotspot for birdlife. Look for Goldfinch, Linnet, Garden Warbler and Whitethroat among the thistles.
On the grassy bank to your left, you might catch a Grey Wagtail's bright yellow belly, or a Swallow swooping in for flying insects.
Over the dam wall there is plenty to see. Along with the ducks, gulls and the resident mute swans, look out for Ringed Plover, Redshank and Linnet, with Pied Wagtail, Little Egret and, in colder months, perhaps a juvenile Great Northern Diver. If you are lucky, you might spot the rare Channel Wagtail.
At the end of the dam, a footpath at the base of the grassy bank leads back to the start. The fence posts and bushes there shelter small birds, and even the solar panels in the field beyond draw them in. We have seen pied and yellow wagtails, yellowhammers and meadow pipits, along with magpies and crows, perched on them through the summer.
Between the dam and the village of Perry lie the quieter lagoons. Fewer people walk this far, which is part of the appeal.
From the Lagoon Hide you might see Redshank, Green Sandpiper or a well-hidden Snipe feeding on the mudflats and islands. The reed beds nearby hold Reed and Cetti's warblers, Reed Buntings and Whitethroats. Time it right and you could find a Bittern in winter or an Avocet in spring.
This page only scratches the surface. Two more hides overlook the quiet Savages Creek in the north west corner, waiting for another visit.
The full circular walk is about nine miles on a hard surfaced track, so most people split it into shorter sections rather than doing the whole loop in one go. The same track is good for bikes as well as boots.
There are two main car parks. Mander, on the south side, has the Fishing Lodge café and toilets. Marlow, by the dam, has the Visitor Centre, amenities and the water sports area. Both charge for parking, and the official Grafham Water website lists the current charges and opening times.
Eight bird hides are spread around the shoreline, and there is bike hire if you would rather ride than walk. Grafham Water sits just south west of Huntingdon, which is the nearest town and railway station.
Another big reservoir in the region, famous for winter waterfowl and summer ospreys.
A Northamptonshire reservoir reserve with eight bird hides around the shoreline.
Another Cambridgeshire waterside reserve, with hides, lakes and the chance of a kingfisher.
A winter walk on the Ouse Washes, with swans, marsh harriers and wide fenland views.
A quieter woodland walk for peaceful paths, insects and slow exploration.
Back to the county hub for more nature walks across Cambridgeshire.
A November regular at Grafham. Follow the grebe through a full breeding season.
The Visitor information website provides details of parking charges and operating hours.
Seasonal field notes from my wildlife walks: recent encounters, the story behind favourite photos, and simple, practical tips you can use on your next outing.